Piano Guidance
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Does oiling wood prevent warping?

A penetrating oil like CUTEK® protects wood from the inside out. It works by penetrating deeply into the timber to repel moisture. It also helps to stabilise wood, preventing cupping, splitting and warping.

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How to prevent wood from warping

You have just laid a new timber deck and it looks amazing. The colour and texture blends perfectly into the surrounds and you appreciate the warmth and beauty timber brings to your home. In 12 to 24 months, the exposed timber begins to warp. The once fabulous deck has become an eyesore. How do you stop this happening? We will walk you through why timber warps, how to prevent warping and what to do if you timber is already warped.

Why wood warps:

Warping occurs when the moisture content in wood changes unevenly. In damp or rainy conditions, moisture is absorbed into the wood causing swelling. When timber dries, it shrinks. With every wet and dry cycle this process is repeated. When one part of a timber board dries and consequently shrinks faster than another area, the wood is stressed and warping occurs. Weather exposure and poor ventilation contribute to warping.

How to prevent warping:

Firstly, it is important to choose the right timber species for your project. Different timbers have different properties and densities, which effect colour, texture, grain and durability. If longevity is required and the timber exposed, it is best to choose a durable hardwood. Second, ensure the timber is well ventilated. Timber structures that are close to the ground with poor ventilation are more susceptible to warping. Third, protect the wood with a timber coating. A penetrating oil like CUTEK® protects wood from the inside out. It works by penetrating deeply into the timber to repel moisture. It also helps to stabilise wood, preventing cupping, splitting and warping.

What to do if your wood is already warped:

If minor warping has occurred, it is possible to extend the service life of your timber. Sanding is required to remove protruding edges and flatten the timber surface. After this, it is essential the timber is protected. CUTEK® is a recommend choice for enhancing the dimensional stability of timber and providing long-term protection against warping. Diffusing deeply, CUTEK® oil remains active inside the wood to repel moisture. When traditional wood care products, that form a film around the timber, breakdown (crack or peel), moisture is able to absorb into the timber and wood once again is subject to warping. Being a penetrating oil, rather than a film-forming product, CUTEK® does not crack or peel, making it the professional’s choice for timber protection. Unfortunately, if timber is severely warped, full replacement is required. Be sure to choose the right timber species and apply a CUTEK® timber oil to ensure warping does not wreak havoc again.

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Don't use softwoods (e.g. pines and spruces), don't use ring porous species (e.g. oaks and ashes). Of course, you can carve a spoon from any wood but diffuse-porous wood tends to work best.

Acer saccharinum is very common here. It hybridises with Red Maple, so it can be hard to tell exactly what you’ve got, especially if you don’t have any leaves available, but either (and any in between) work well. I love the smell of my workshop when I’ve been chomping through a bunch of maple. It might be my weakness for maple syrup, but the sweet, fresh scent of recently cut maple is my happy place. Come into my workshop unannounced and you might just catch me huffing the recently cut surface of maple like some sort of coke addict. Silver maple is sometimes called Soft maple. It has a Janka hardness of 3,110N. So it’s softer than birch, but nowhere near woods I’d call soft (basswood (Tilia americana) measures just 1,800N). The name relates either to it’s tendency to lose branches in high winds or as a counter to Sugar maple Acer saccharum, which is also known as Hard maple (6,400N Janka hardness). All maples have a beautiful grain to them. There’s often a chatoyance to it that catches the light in a subtle way. A lot of the silver maple I’ve worked with will have ripple grain somewhere in it. This adds to the beauty but can be a bit of a bugger to get a nice tool finish.

Black Cherry

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