Piano Guidance
Piano Guidance
Photo: Mark Weisgerber
The base of the fragrance contains vetiveryl acetate, sandalwood, isoeugenol, vanillin (1.5%), coumarin (5%), as well as natural ambergris, musk, and civet.
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Read More »🚨 This article is archived and available in its entirety for free for registered members only. Please login or register to read more. May 5th, 1921, is considered the birthday of the Chanel №5 fragrance, which celebrates its centenary this year. Coco Chanel had a special love for the number 5: "I present my collection of dresses on the fifth day of the fifth month and so we will leave this sample number five with the same name that it already has, it will bring good luck." That is, according to one of the most replicated versions, what she told perfumer Ernest Beaux when he presented her several versions of the fragrance (most often it is mentioned he showed her ten samples, numbered from 1 to 5 and from 20 to 24.) Chanel №5 has long been a legend, the most iconic fragrance, the embodiment of the French perfume classics while remaining relevant and in demand, continuing to hold a strong position among the sales hits to this day. Over a hundred years, "Number Five" has become heavy with myths and speculations, countless articles have been written about it, and each new launch associated with this fragrance invariably causes a huge discussion among critics, brand fans, and perfumery lovers. I won't claim to be exhaustive about this fragrance in this short article; I'm not one to go into history and art discussions, but I would still like to make my small contribution and recall some critical details that inevitably come up when talking about his wonderful perfume.
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Read More »Coco Chanel did not like the heavy, dense floral fragrances of the time; she was irritated by the smell of unwashed bodies and the animalic aspects of natural musk. For her perfume, she was looking for the smell of freshness, the feeling of just-washed, clean skin. She wanted something innovative and unlike anything that existed at the time. A hundred years ago, the range of perfume freshness was small: it was mostly limited to citrus essential oils, but they, being very volatile, left the composition in a matter of minutes. Ernest Beaux was very keen on new synthetic materials; he experimented with aldehydes, which at the time seemed difficult to work with and strange. "The future of perfumery is in the hands of chemists. We will have to rely on chemists to find new materials if we want to create new fragrances." Chanel №5 was not the first fragrance to include synthetic aldehydes. The most frequently heard claim to the use is Houbigant's Quelques Fleurs of 1912, which included methyl nonyl acetaldehyde ("C-12 MNA aldehyde"), aka 2-methyl undecanal, synthesized by the great French chemist Auguste Georges Darzens in 1903 (he, incidentally, was also born in Moscow.) The first synthetic aldehydes Beaux had at his disposal were of rather mediocre quality, and after a series of experiments, he came to use a cocktail of three substances: undecanal ("C-110 aldehyde"), dodecanal ("C-12"), and 10-undecenal ("C-11") - the latter, being unsaturated, is closest to the characteristic aspect of coriander oil and cilantro herbs that Beaux had picked up in the scent of the northern lakes. This aldehyde complex was already used by Beaux in 'Bouquet de Catherine' (later Rallet №1), which was conceived as a female analogue of 'Bouquet de Napoleon' - Beaux's first big success as a perfumer. One legend says that Beaux mistakenly put an overdose of aldehydes into the fragrance, accidentally using pure substances instead of 10% solutions, but I am almost certain that he did it consciously to achieve the desired freshness and "synthetic" character. He "appreciated artificiality, the kind that contradicts nature, not the kind that tries to imitate it." Now, a hundred years later, freshness in fragrances is the absolute standard, and materials that impart freshness are in almost any composition. Although Beaux used synthetic aldehydes, fundamentally they are not something unnatural and man-made; aldehydes can be found in significant amounts in a wide range of essential oils. The very same undecanal is present in the essential oils of most citrus fruits (in some types of orange oil up to 1% - which is ten times more than in Chanel №5 - and octanal, a lighter homologue of undecanal, in orange can even be over 5%), in cilantro herb oil (up to 3%), and in the oil of Cerastium candidissimum, the Greek endemic, the content of undecanal reaches a crazy 10%. In the essential oil of betel leaves, a close relative of black pepper, dodecanal can be about 5%, the same amount as in cilantro, and only slightly less in the root of the Heracleum (hogweed or cow parsnip - which is very close to angelica). In tangerine, it is only three percent less, around 2%.
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Read More »Beau began by adding aldehydes to notes of jasmine, later complicating the central floral bouquet by adding rose and ylang-ylang. The original Chanel №5 formula included a staggering amount of natural rose and jasmine - about 4 and 5 percent respectively, which at the time was a common practice. In today's fragrance, it is absolutely impossible to imagine such a thing, and it's not even about IFRA. The top notes are formed by bergamot, neroli, linalool (it was available as a rosewood isolate), and frankincense essential oil - it harmonizes with the aldehydes, exalting them. The floral center of the composition is complemented by violet methyl ionone and lily of the valley hydroxycitronellal (about 8 and 10%, respectively). The base of the fragrance contains vetiveryl acetate, sandalwood, isoeugenol, vanillin (1.5%), coumarin (5%), as well as natural ambergris, musk, and civet.
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